“The world reveals itself to those who travel on foot.” – Werner Herzog
The last section hike of 2023 made it to my top 3 all-time section hikes, and redeemed Pennsylvania for me. We had about 37 miles left of the state with 229 AT miles, known for its rocky terrain. In fact, up until this last section, I had experienced so much foot pain and blisters that I dreaded each trip if only for that reason. This time, though, the first day’s hike was absolutely lovely and my feet weren’t achy nor blistered afterwards. I bought Saloman’s boots before this trip and wore them everyday for about a month prior to the trip to break them in. I wore stockings under wool socks and it did the trick. I actually love my boots so much I have been wearing them almost exclusively in the 3 weeks since we got back from this trip. Our itinerary was day 1 from PA Route 873 (1260.5) to Smith Gap Road (1273.3), day 2 from Smith Gap Road to PA Route 191 (1289.9) and day 3 from PA Route 191 to Delaware Water Gap (1296.9), staying off the trail each night, “platinum blazing” and “slack packing.” As always, we hike with our sleeping bags just in case something happens and we do end up needing to stay outdoors overnight.
December 2nd –
We enjoyed our stay with Lynn and the Blue Mountain Shanty so much that we stayed with her again for 3 nights. We arrived late the last Wednesday of November and started the following morning with her homemade breakfast of eggs, bacon and pancakes. After a mix-up with where our starting point was, we met Lynn at the parking lot at Smith Gap Road and she took us back to PA Route 873, back at the bridge where we ended a few weeks prior. We started the day near Palmerton, looking across the river to a towering mountain with exposed rock sliding down the slope into netting that protects a freeway below. It was intimidating knowing that the climb was a 1,000 foot elevation gain over the course of a mile a. But it actually turned out to be a very fun, technical hike. The trail goes up the road, and it was interesting to start by navigating road construction and using a Porta Potty. We crossed the busy road at the stop light and then the trail was just off the road on the right. Years of zinc production had created an ecological nightmare in the Lehigh and Kittatinny Gaps. The production of zinc helped the town grow, and employed many people, but it killed off much vegetation. Today the mountain is coming back. Efforts made have dotted the mountain with vegetation, but not completely. I hate to say this, but it made the climb something very special. It was a steady climb, rocky on the trail in the woods until we approached piles of rocks. White blazes painted on the rocks and boulders pointed the way up to the top, a climb that was exhausting on the calves, quads and lungs, but it was also a distraction in itself because we had to be sure of our footing. Without old growth, and the typical green Pennsylvania mountain, we had sweeping views of the valley below us, and the mountains beyond. We took plenty of pictures on the way up, not realizing that the higher we climbed, the better view we had of the river, and mountains. It is always satisfying being somewhere where you can look over at the miles you’ve covered on the mountains’ spines.
“The climb speaks to our character, but the view, I think, to our souls.” – Lori Lansen
We caught our breath and took in the views at the top of Blue Mountain. We walked along the backside of the mountain, a path that mimics an arm going around someone’s shoulder and resting on their back. Ken kept his eyes out for cool rocks, many of which were reddish in tint, from the rich minerals of the area. We had a few miles of walking along the top of the rocky ridge, with undisturbed views. The weather was warm, the sun was shining and it was perfect hiking conditions. We took a break for lunch and Googled Marshall’s Manor – a giant house we saw on top of a hill with nothing around it. Lore and internet sites tell the tale of a Union officer in the Civil War, General Elisha Marshall who purchased the property for it’s pristine views of the Lehigh River/Gap. He died not long after, many sites suggested it was his wife, and afterwards the hill was stained red with blood. He was buried in upstate New York, where he was from and his wife lived as a recluse in that home. In the early 2000s, grave robbers dug up Marshall’s grave.
We continued our day’s hike after lunch by crossing under power lines, which then led to a gravel road. I realized at one point that we hadn’t seen any blazes, so we checked our apps. Far Out said we were on the trail, and Google Maps showed that we were coming up to Blue Mountain Road. After a few more yards, we saw blazes on the left and right of the gravel road, but once we turned to get on that path, Far Out had us off the trail. Without being sure of direction, we decided to stay on the gravel road until the intersection with Blue Mountain Road. Once we crossed the road the forest changed to pines. It is always amazing how roads, or power lines can break up a forest and change its entire character. We had a steep climb up on a rocky trail covered in pine needles. This ascent was more familiar, surrounded by foliage, but with a view of Blue Mountain Ski Resort in the background. As we finished the day’s hike, about 7 miles of trail left, we spent a lot of time tripping over medium rocks, and the more familiar “Rocksylvannia” terrain. I saw a comment on an Appalachian Trail Hikers Facebook page that said “From time to time they close sections of the AT in PA so volunteers can go in and sharpen the rocks.” I’m writing this almost a month after our trip (life and holidays and Covid have gotten in my way) and I don’t remember what exactly was said, but I remember thinking about those medium rocks and what is hidden just below the surface. One of us said something to the other in the last few miles of the day that was a seemingly innocuous comment, but triggered a response that indicated that whatever was on the surface had an iceberg of emotion below it. Luckily whatever “it” was turned out to be short lived and easily resolved.
We ended that Thursday with a trip to Wanamaker’s General Store for some snacks, souvenirs and gifts before heading back to Lynn’s air bnb for some take out pizza, reading by the fire, and quality time with her amazing kitties, Saucy and Pepper.
December 3rd –
“Nothing vast enters the life of mortals without a curse.” – Sophocles
Friday’s hike was far less fun, less picturesque and overall a blah kind of day. We got an early start, leaving the truck at Route 191 Fox Gap and getting dropped off at Smith Gap Road to start. We started on the ridge so there was no climb, but we knew it was a 17 mile day, and it was likely going to rain. Smith Gap Road was lined with parked cars, and we spoke to two hunters who thanked us for wearing blaze orange immediately upon leaving Lynn’s car. For a rainy Friday, we saw a lot of hunters, and I was very thankful for the blaze orange, especially once I noticed others wearing it out in the woods, and how much it stands out. The first 8 miles were kind of nondescript, typical PA trail. We passed Hahns Lookout and another view point, but didn’t stop very long since the cloudy skies, and humidity in the air let us know that rain was coming soon. We switched into rain gear just before descending down into Wind Gap, where I nearly got hit by a car crossing North Broadway. Standing by an AT sign next to a large parking lot, I allowed my heart rate to come back down after almost being taken out by a driver, but didn’t pause very long. That last mile had taken 38 minutes with stopping to pee, change and take a phone call and we needed to haul ass to finish before dark. Not to be gross, but I had a terrible period that required frequent attention and it is doable to backpack while menstruating, but adds to the logistics of it all. The climb out of Wind Gap was only a 600 foot ascent, but it was steep. I used a mental trick I had developed awhile ago of setting small milestones, rather than looking at the big picture. I set small goals of one blaze to the next, and then the next, etc. to keep going. The hike flattened back out and we were making good time until we got to Wolf Rocks. It was so slippery. We both fell several times, and landed pretty hard. The trail was just slick and it was hard to keep moving forward, it felt like walking on ice, constantly slipping backwards. There is a trail that bypasses Wolf Rocks, but we didn’t realize it would be a knife-edge-in-the-rain type of situation. We got to the car just as the sun was setting behind us and the rain started to fall heavier. We drove straight to dinner, an amazing meal at Curious Goods at the Bake Oven Inn, exhausted but relieved that our long day in the rain was behind us. The food is farm-to-table fresh and the location is so unique – it’s the downstairs of a woman’s home. Although sometimes I feel like this style of platinum blazing is cheating, I am so appreciative of all the small towns, people and businesses we have discovered along this journey. Plus, warm food and central heat is hard to say no to after a cold day in the rain. We spent our last night at Lynn’s house and then we were back at it Saturday with only 8ish miles to finish up PA.
December 4th –
“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure that some of them are dirt.” -John Muir
We met True Grit at the Deer Head Inn Saturday morning, and he drove us back to Route 191, fox gap. True Grit asked if we were “LASHes?” and we had to admit that we had no idea what that meant. After explain that it stands for “long ass section hikers,” he explained that he’s a FLASHer – a “fucking long ass section hiker” who not only completed the AT, but is currently working on the PCT and will do the CDT once he’s done with that. No, we are not LASHes or FLASHes, we are too busy, work full time and have kids middle-aged backpackers who get out there when we can. Saturday we really slack packed. No rain gear, minimal food, and didn’t even bring our sleeping gear since we only had a few miles left. I was positively giddy that we were going to finish another state, and I was really looking forward to staying at the Deer Head Inn.
After crossing 191, the trail descends a bit and snakes along a narrow path dug into the slope of the mountain. I remember this because I had to pee and there was no good spot to get off the trail. Once we hit the power lines it widened out and flattened out. The rain from Friday was gone, but we walked in, around and above the fog of the morning. The trail took us to a service road that we followed for a few miles, and we made sure that we kept our eyes out for blazes in the fog. Once we got to the sub station, the character of the woods changed. We saw Mountain Laurel again, something that wasn’t present in the last few section hikes, but covers the mountains and hills of the Delaware Water Gap Natural Preserve. The last five miles had amazing views of the Delaware River, and the cliffs on the New Jersey side as we followed the meandering descent into Delaware Water Gap. We had seen many hunters and then many day hikers. The fog completely cleared as we crossed streams, passed small waterfalls and admired lichen on the bark of the trees. The trail hits a road which takes you right next to the Deer Head Inn, our final stop for the day. I made Ken walk further, following the trail past the transit authority building and alongside the busy and noisy Interstate 80 that goes from Pennsylvania into New Jersey (and also crosses the United States). We walked over the Delaware River, trucks blasting air as they passed until we got to the New Jersey Line. The line was painted on the pathway, and we laid down to get a picture. On the way back into town, a passing truck flashed his lights at us, seemingly one person who recognized why were were walking along a highway in December with giant packs on our backs.
The Deer Head Inn was the epitome of this section hike. The darling town of Delaware Water Gap, and the Inn were decorated for Christmas, and everyone was so welcoming. We stayed two nights at the famous Inn we had never heard of before. In fact, we tried to get in a little early to put our packs down and met a resident who turned out to be a 5-time Grammy winner. We saw two phenomenal bands – The Sara Caswell Quartet Saturday night and Marvin Stamm/Mike Holobar Quartet Sunday night. Sara Caswell is a jazz violinist who plays with such passion, her music made me cry. I had never known I liked jazz until she slid her bow across the strings of the first note of the first song. The inn is closed in January and February, and I cannot wait until March, when I can start New Jersey, hiking south bound to end again in Delaware Water Gap and see the people who felt like fast friends at the Deer Head Inn.
– Liz (aka Hand Eye)